Guwahati is the capital of Assam, and pretty much unavoidable if you wish to travel in India’s north east. It is a convenient hub with most of the mod cons (espresso, okay restaurants and travel agents). It also picks up a few points for its scenic location by the mighty Brahmaputra river. Other than that, there aren’t many more positives to list: it is a dusty, dirty and congested city.
Having said that, it is an interesting experience for another reason: you hardly see any other westerners here. Beside the stares (of which there are plenty), you can expect people to be interested in who you are and what you are doing here. Some will even go out of their way to be seen next to you – westerners are a novelty!
Still, after four days here it feels like it’s about time we move on. Now, if only that Arunachal permit would come through…
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